The Greatest Climbing Helmets of 2023

Out of doors climbing comes with inherent hazards, and sporting a helmet may help you shield your self and reduce danger. Fashionable helmets are designed to defend towards rockfall from above and facet impacts that may happen throughout lead falls. Due to improvements in supplies and design, climbing helmets are consistently bettering.

Our suggestions embrace high quality fashions that provide consolation, sturdiness, worth, and low weight — all with out compromising security and effectiveness.

This record is the results of years spent testing helmets made by numerous leaders out there. Happily, we haven’t needed to take a look at the last word goal of any of those helmets, however we’ve totally asses day-to-day consolation and sturdiness. We’ve even taken a number of small items of choss to our well-protected noggins.

Throughout discipline testing, sure kinds stood out from the remaining, leaving us with this record of the most effective climbing helmets obtainable at the moment. Make sure you try our included complete purchaser’s information to find out which climbing helmet is best for you. Hop right down to our helpful comparability chart for a fast look at every mannequin, or have your burning questions hashed out in our FAQ.

Editor’s Be aware: We refreshed this text on August 30, 2023 to incorporate a number of just lately launched helmets and up to date shopping for steerage.

The Greatest Climbing Helmets of 2023

Climbing Helmets Comparability Chart

How We Examined Climbing Helmets

To slender down this record of the most effective climbing helmets, the GearJunkie group examined dozens of fashions and systematically recorded our impressions.

We examined helmets whereas sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and support climbing. We wore helmets whereas belaying, and even took a number of items of choss to our foam-covered domes. With each mannequin, we assessed consolation, weight, sturdiness, breathability, and total worth.

A lot of the testing came about on the crags close to Salt Lake Metropolis, Utah — from the sharp limestone of Saint George to the hovering sandstone of Zion Nationwide Park. We additionally wore helmets within the sweltering summer time warmth of central Texas to match air flow programs and temperature regulation.

We didn’t bodily take a look at the protecting talents of the helmets on this record. Nonetheless, we made positive to solely embrace helmets with industry-leading supplies and safety-focused designs.

Purchaser’s Information: Select the Greatest Climbing Helmets

When climbing open air, sure danger elements stay past our management. Carrying a climbing helmet on the crag is likely one of the best and simplest methods to guard and put together your self towards damage.

In 2023, high-quality climbing helmets are extra protecting, comfy, and light-weight than ever earlier than. All out of doors climbers ought to have a helmet of their package — and ideally, on their heads.

When deciding on the right helmet, there are a number of necessary elements to contemplate. On this helpful purchaser’s information, we’ll break down necessary issues together with supplies, consolation, air flow, sizing, weight, sturdiness, and rather more. We’ll additionally totally clarify some key terminology you’ll have to know when making an knowledgeable buy.

Components of a Helmet

Fashionable climbing helmets encompass a dome-shaped piece of froth, a tough plastic shell (often), a harness system for consolation and exact becoming, and a chin strap. The supplies used for every element will decide the most effective makes use of and supreme value of the helmet.

Helmet Foam

The shock-absorbing qualities of contemporary helmets come from light-weight shock-absorbing foam. There are two various kinds of foam in the marketplace, and every has its personal professionals and cons.

The entire helmets we’ve included on this record have foam that covers the highest, rear, and sides of the pinnacle, which is important for shielding towards numerous varieties of potential impacts.

Expanded Polystyrene (EPS)

As a result of expanded polystyrene foam is each efficient and reasonably priced, it’s been utilized in climbing helmets for a lot of many years. Although EPS feels arduous to the contact, it’s made to crush and crack upon impression as a way to soak up the brunt of collision forces.

Whereas EPS remains to be discovered in lots of high quality helmets, it does have some downsides. Some climbers discover EPS to be fragile, particularly when utilized in light-weight and low-profile helmets.

It’s necessary to watch out with EPS helmets. Merely dropping one on the bottom by chance might end in small cracks. As soon as cracks have fashioned, the helmet have to be changed.

Expanded Polypropylene (EPP)

The opposite foam possibility on the climbing helmet market is known as expanded polypropylene, or EPP. In contrast to EPS, EPP doesn’t soak up impacts by fracturing. As an alternative, EPP helmets have somewhat give to them and might truly regain their authentic form after minor impacts.

EPP helmets are additionally much less prone to be unintentionally broken, they usually typically last more because of this. Because the gold normal for sturdiness, EPP is shortly changing into the froth of alternative within the climbing helmet market. As a tradeoff for the utmost sturdiness and minimal weight, EPP helmets do are typically costlier.

Composite Foam Helmets

Some fashionable helmets incorporate each EPS and EPP foam of their building as a way to maximize the protecting advantages of every. On our record, the Black Diamond Imaginative and prescient and the Petzl Sirocco are examples of composite foam helmets.

As a result of EPS foam is nice for absorbing the brunt of high impacts from falling objects, composite helmets often embrace an inserted disc of EPS within the crown space. Apart from this EPS disc, composite helmets just like the Imaginative and prescient and the Sirocco are comprised of the extra versatile and sturdy EPP foam.

Helmet Shells

Some climbing helmets include a tough plastic outer layer or shell. Most shells are comprised of both ABS or polycarbonate. The Wild Nation Syncro comes with a full-coverage polycarbonate shell.

As a result of EPP foam is sturdy and immune to fractures by itself, some EPP helmets don’t include a full outer shell. Helmets with out full shells are lighter, however in addition they are typically much less sturdy.

Some kinds, just like the Edelrid Salathe, include partial shells that solely cowl the crown space of the helmet as a way to disperse potential impacts from falling objects.

Adjustable Harness System

The harness system inside a climbing helmet permits the wearer to regulate the match for consolation and safety. Although the assorted helmets on our record include totally different harness programs, every is well-made and simple sufficient to regulate on the fly.

Some helmets, just like the Singing Rock Hex, embrace a harness system that adjusts by way of a big dial and might match a broad vary of head dimensions and shapes. Whereas it is a helpful characteristic, it provides vital weight.

Minimalist helmets just like the Edelrid Salathe embrace a way more streamlined harness system as a way to reduce complete weight. The draw back to that is that minimalist helmets are much less adjustable total.

We suggest that every one climbers attempt helmets on upfront — or no less than measure your head’s dimensions — earlier than making a purchase order, particularly with minimalist kinds.

For winter climbing, it’s good to have the choice to put on a hat beneath your helmet, so loads of adjustability is essential.

Padding

Along with a harness system, most climbing helmets are lined with detachable, washable padding. Within the case of most fashionable helmets, only some small strategically positioned pads are required to create a safe and cozy match.

Helmet Chin Straps and Buckles

All climbing helmets are secured onto the pinnacle utilizing straps that match across the ears and below the chin. A light-weight and adjustable buckle connects the straps and presents customized becoming.

Whereas basic side-release plastic buckles are tried and true, they are often tough to launch whereas sporting gloves. Ice climbers and mountaineers might need a harness with a magnetic buckle, such because the Petzl Sirocco.

Consolation

Climbing helmets are sometimes worn for a number of hours on finish, and luxury is paramount. As a result of no two climbers may have an equivalent head form, essentially the most comfy type for you may not work in your accomplice. Because of this, we all the time suggest attempting on a number of kinds as you seek for the correct mannequin.

Apart from the general form, a helmet’s harness system may have the best impression on its consolation. Whereas testing many alternative climbing helmets, we discovered minimalist helmets with easy harnesses are typically essentially the most comfy — particularly for climbers with lengthy hair.

Helmets just like the Petzl Sirocco and Edelrid Salathe make the most of easy adjustable straps as a substitute of cumbersome adjustment dials or plastic bands. Sadly, minimalist helmets are additionally the least adjustable.

Nicely-placed inside liner pads also can add vital consolation. Pads mix with the harness system to hug the form of your head, and most are detachable and washable. On this record, we notably just like the padding system discovered on the Mammut Crag Sender and the Edelrid Salathe.

Sturdiness

Climbing helmets with strong plastic shells — such because the Petzl Boreo — are typically extra sturdy than helmets with a number of uncovered foam just like the Petzl Sirocco. Many climbers merely toss their helmets into their packs with their rack and twine, and the ensuing turbulence could cause harm over time.

Nevertheless, in case you deal with a climbing helmet with care, it ought to final for a few years — except it endures a major impression, in fact.

So far as foam sturdiness goes, expanded polypropylene (EPP) is superior to expanded polystyrene (EPS). EPP has somewhat give to it, and it may well flex and survive minor impacts with out breaking or deforming. EPS, alternatively, fractures simply and have to be changed as quickly as any cracks type.

On our record, the Petzl Boreo is among the many most sturdy helmets you should purchase. Naturally, it’s additionally one of many heavier choices.

Weight

On lengthy approaches or alpine missions, an ultralight helmet can enhance consolation and lighten your load. On this record, we’ve included helmets weighing from 6 to 12 ounces.

Whereas the distinction of just some ounces could seem insignificant, we’ve discovered that ultralight helmets are a lot appreciated if you’re 10 pitches up an all-day journey route.

Typically, ultralight helmets sacrifice some adjustability as a way to maintain their complete weight low.

Air flow

In some unspecified time in the future, you’re going to get sizzling and sweaty whereas out on the crag. For people, a well-ventilated head is essential for thermoregulation.

Whereas a number of vents are nice for staying cool, too many vents can lower the effectiveness of the helmet total. One of the best climbing helmets have strategically positioned vents that breathe nicely with out compromising safety.

On this record, we expect the Edelrid Salathe and the Petzl Sirocco helmets provide wonderful air flow programs.

Sizing

Each helmet producer has its personal sizing system. Typically, grownup helmets are available in two or three sizes. Every dimension will cowl a spread of head diameters.

For instance, a small Edelrid Salathe is designed to work with heads measuring 50-58 cm in diameter. Helmets that embrace harnesses with plastic bands or dials are typically extra adjustable and work for a wider vary of head diameters. We suggest measuring your head — and ideally attempting on a number of helmets — earlier than buying.

Different Options

Headlamp and Goggle Compatibility

Most climbing helmets include slots or straps that permit you to put on a headlamp or a pair of ski goggles securely. On our record, helmets together with the Mammut Crag Sender, Petzl Sirroco, and Edelrid Salathe provide wonderful modular compatibility with headlamps and goggles of all sizes and styles.

MIPS

Multidirectional Affect Safety Programs, or MIPS, are built-in options designed to mitigate rotational forces on the pinnacle and mind. Mainly, helmets outfitted with MIPS embrace a low-friction layer between the helmet’s liner and the wearer’s head.

Upon impacts that happen at an angle, this MIPS layer ought to permit the helmet to soak up the type of rotational forces typically related to traumatic mind accidents.

MIPS has been obtainable in biking and ski helmets for a few years, however solely just lately have some climbing firms adopted the know-how. Although some research have proven MIPS does lower rational forces from impacts sustained throughout a fall, not all climbing helmet specialists agree MIPS offers a bonus in climbing-specific situations.

Typically, a helmet with MIPS will value $25-40 greater than a non-MIPS model.

When to Put on a Climbing Helmet

From high-elevation alpine routes to roadside sport crags, a helmet is all the time a good suggestion.

At present, the apply of sporting a helmet for multi-pitch and trad climbing is extensively practiced and almost common. Trad climbing and multi-pitch routes are sometimes extra prone to contain an elevated danger of rockfall. At outstanding trad climbing crags resembling Indian Creek and Yosemite, nearly all climbers put on helmets.

In different climbing disciplines, helmet use is much much less normal. Within the comparatively managed setting of the climbing fitness center, few climbers put on helmets because of a decreased danger of falling rock or out-of-control lead falls. Equally, many climbers select to not put on a helmet whereas bouldering or sport climbing.

Although some climbing disciplines are extra helmet-prone than others, climbers, normally, are definitely shifting towards extra frequent helmet use. As specialists in climbing and climbing gear, we really feel helmets present vital safety for any self-discipline of climbing.

Fashionable helmets are mild, comfy, and minimally intrusive. We advocate for climbers to put on helmets regardless of which self-discipline they’re collaborating in.

When to Retire a Climbing Hemet

It’s necessary to repeatedly test your helmet for harm and extra put on. Helmets can solely present safety in the event that they’re in correct situation.

The time to retire your helmet and buy a brand new one depends upon the supplies it’s comprised of. Expanded polystyrene (EPS) helmets fracture upon impression to soak up forces and shield the wearer.

As soon as an EPS helmet has sustained an impression and has cracked, it have to be retired. If you happen to personal an EPS helmet (such because the Petzl Picchu), test incessantly for cracks and deformations on each the inside and exterior.

Do not forget that main impacts aren’t the one occasions that may trigger retirement-worthy cracks. Small fractures could also be attributable to merely dropping an EPS helmet onto a tough floor.

Expanded Polypropylene (EPP) helmets just like the Edelrid Salathe and Petzl Sirocco are semi-flexible and extra immune to cracks. EPP can endure a number of impacts, so long as the general integrity of the helmet stays in good condition.

If you happen to’ve broken your EPP helmet and are uncertain if it must be retired, it’s finest to make a conservative alternative and buy a brand new helmet.

Climbing Helmet Security Requirements

Climbing helmets are designed and examined to satisfy sure worldwide security requirements. The most typical requirements for climbing helmets are the UIAA 106 and the EN 12492.

Helmets designed in line with these requirements should match into pointers associated to air flow, chinstrap power, and impacts from above.

Whereas UIAA and EN requirements account for impacts from above (resembling rockfall), these requirements don’t prioritize a helmet’s potential to guard towards again and facet impacts. To make sure that your helmet presents around-the-head safety, search for firms that point out it within the helmet’s specs.

Some firms, like Petzl, have their very own inside requirements for side-of-the-head safety. The entire helmets on our record embrace foam that covers the again and sides of the wearer’s head.

FAQ